TWO DAYS IN THE WALLED CITY OF KHIVA

Starting the day at the central square and Kalta Monir Minaret (where you can rent a traditional hat and sit on a throne...)


First stop is Kulna Ark, an old fortress


with throne rooms




a currency museum





There appears to be some sort of festival in preparation (we get a goodview from theTerasse Cafe, and book for sunset)







Next, an interesting history museum inside the Mohammed Rakhim Khan Madrassa




including some paintings (is it only me or is he weirdly remiscent of Bernard Breslaw?!)

The amazing interior of 10th century (rebuilt in 1788) Djuma Mosque with its fabulous hypostyle forest of 112 ancient columns







Across the street is the small Museum of Ancient Khorezm Culture mainly with calligraphy though we forget that some signs omit the dual century measures in AD/After Mohammed so some scripts aren't as very old as we first thought!



But there are some great photos.  Ok guys, who stole my hat...?


Towards the eastern gate, the slightly past-its-best Madrassa Alla Kuli Khan


And to close the day, a meander by the city wall, entered by four gates, one at each side of the rectangular fortress. 






Before dinner and moonlit minarets



Second and last Khiva day.  A silk workshop is just setting up in a pretty courtyard covered with thin strips of wood above for shade.  

Nearby the revered Pahlavon Mausoleum,  


with its sublime courtyard and stately tilework, is one of the town’s most beautiful spots.  






Many locals enter with reverence and there’s chanting and praying. 




Pahlavon Mahmud was a local boy - poet, philosopher and legendary wrestler who became Khiva’s patron saint. His 1326 tomb was rebuilt in the 19th century (and then requisitioned in 1913 by the khan of the day as his family mausoleum).
 
 
D buys two tickets for the Islam Khodsa Madrassa Minaret - highest in Uzbekistan at 57m


but steps are a challenge and S is persuaded to go down.



Only Duncan makes it to the top...  Views are good, but a little cramped with room for only only six people up top and some interesring shuffling to pass on the steps.




 
Meanwhile, S is entertained music and dancing at the bottom



Islam Khodsa Madrassa now houses the Applied Art Museum, an interesting collection of vases, tiles, wood, carpets and clothing. 



 

After wandering some picturesque alleyways




we rest in traditional bunk seats at the Kheivak cafe with green tea 


It's a short walk to the Tosh-Hovli Palace, with many interlinked rooms and 2 nice palace/throne areas







The Handicraft Museum is almost empty of visitors (and in need of a good coffee bar!), but interesting building with many tiled walls and painted timber beams.








Lastly, the Art Museum. A fine building





Inside, displays of nice historic paintings of Khiva, Khan and regional fortresses.



Wander back towards main square, where a big rehearsal is going on (and our restaurant, top right).





And up for sundowners and dinner.


(modelling my new hat!)







  
Tomorrow, an early start for a 30 minute lift to Urgench airport for our domestic flight to Tashkent [covered in the Tashkent section]

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